By day, Siniawan feels almost frozen in time. The quiet streets are lined with century-old wooden shophouses, while the occasional visitor wanders past weathered facades that have witnessed generations of change.
But as the sun sets, the sleepy village transforms. Lanterns glow overhead, crowds begin to arrive and the aroma of sizzling street food fills the air.
Just a short drive from Kuching, the Siniawan Old Town and Night Market has become one of Sarawak’s most distinctive weekend destinations.
Siniawan has a colourful history. Dating back to around 1840, it served as a trading post for the nearby gold and antimony mining area around Bau during the mining boom.
Before roads connected the area, goods were transported by river. Siniawan was one of the closest points to Bau, with a jetty on the Sarawak River.
As well as supplying Bau with vital provisions, the village catered to the miners’ leisure pursuits, with gambling houses, opium dens and brothels.
In 1857, Chinese miners launched a failed rebellion against Rajah James Brooke, and the village suffered during the reprisals that followed.
Siniawan was later rebuilt, and most of the wooden shophouses seen today date from the 1910s. The village declined again after World War II, the end of mining operations in Bau and the opening of new roads that bypassed the town.
Periodic flooding also took its toll. Following a particularly severe flood in 2004, community leaders came up with a plan in 2009 to revive the village by making the most of its rustic charm and introducing the weekend night market.
Today, visitors can still see traces of the town’s past in its preserved architecture and heritage buildings.
A mouthwatering experience
Despite being called a night market, food is the main attraction here, with relatively little in the way of shopping.
As evening falls, tables are set up along the main street, allowing visitors to sample the many dishes on offer. Popular choices include bamboo chicken, Taiwanese sausages, crispy oyster omelette, satay, noodles, ice kacang, coffee and pastries, handmade ice cream, rojak, dumplings and roast pork.
A local Bidayuh specialty is rice cooked and served in pitcher plants.
Muslim visitors often ask whether halal food is available in Siniawan. From this writer’s observation, much of the food appears to be non-halal, although the nearby Premier Food Republic food court offers Muslim-friendly options.
One popular watering hole is The Bikalan pub and restaurant, run by an English-Bidayuh couple.
Open daily except Mondays from around mid-afternoon until midnight, it often features live music performances that can be enjoyed by diners and passers-by along the street.
Siniawan is about a 45-minute drive from downtown Kuching, so visitors planning to enjoy a few drinks may wish to stay overnight at Roxy Hotel Siniawan, which is within walking distance.
When should you visit?
Chinese New Year and the Christmas season are especially popular times to visit Siniawan. The village’s Shui Yue Gong temple becomes the focal point during the annual Chap Goh Meh celebrations, usually held around February or March.
The festivities include a procession in honour of Guanyin, lion and dragon dance performances, colourful lanterns and plenty of firecrackers.
Another highlight of the local calendar is the Siniawan Country Music Festival, held in September and sometimes referred to as the Siniawan Cowboy-style Oktoberfest.
Between its century-old shophouses, colourful festivals and bustling night market, Siniawan has successfully reinvented itself while preserving the heritage that makes it unique.
For visitors looking to experience a different side of Sarawak beyond Kuching, it is well worth the short journey.
This article first appeared on Malaysia Traveller. Read more articles here.
